Where to Smoke in Mallorca

There is always something of a Cuban presence in was connected to Spain’s last colony of Cuba: “Gabriela, can Spain. For me, though, the former Spanish colony left behind very special traces on this Balearic island. When I stroll along the Passeig del Born promenade in Palma de Mallorca, which is lined with magnificent sycamore trees, I’m constantly reminded of Havana. Is it the colonial buildings, with their magical patios, the spirited, contagious laughter of the locals, and the ocean, which you are so close to in the Old Town? A secret tip: you can enjoy the maze of alleyways around the Seu cathedral with your favorite cigar from a bird’s eye perspective – sacred billows of smoke over Majorca, pleasurably puffed from the roof terrace of the Palacio Ca Sa Galesa.
On this hot late afternoon, full of nostalgia I buy myself a San Cristóbal de La Habana La Fuerza (EUR 11.35), which I find in the excellently stocked Liberto Torres tobacco specialist store.

Photo: Gabriela Greess

Later, while visiting this shop, Plaza Weyler, thanks to its enthusiastic manager, José Miguel, it becomes clear to me what a broadly diversified selection of limited Habano editions the holiday island has. How about, for example, a Trinidad Ingenios EL 2007 (EUR 16.20)? From the Añejados series, the head of the house suggests the Romeo y Julieta Pirámides Añejados 2014 (EUR 14.00). For traditional reasons, Habanos are the favorites on Spanish Majorca. That the prices here are consistently much cheaper than most other European countries has historical reasons. If you’re looking for luxurious gastronomy and hotels, Majorca is an Eldorado: the finest yacht marinas with gourmet restaurants and bars; beaches with crystal-clear water, golf courses that also satisfy the pros. In addition, in the hinterland Majorca has wonderful landscapes and small, historical villages. Very popular are the Finca hotels, where you can simply relax and smoke quietly in the bushes.

On the favorite island of the Germans, Germanic beer bliss was long ago over-taken by a relaxed, cosmopolitan atmosphere. Majorcan-Caribbean flair combines with influences from all over the world. You see this in places like the Nikki Beach Club, which recently hosted a sunset event with fine cigars and mojitos in Magaluf. Despite a strict 2011 antismoking law, on Majorca, spoiled with a great climate, you can still enjoy your fine smoke from mid February– when the famous blossoming of the almond trees begins – until mid October on comfortable terraces (see info), mostly with a chic lounge-ambience and guaranteed cigar-friendly service. This is just part of the hospitality, as it is on the rest of the Iberian Peninsula. The “brown gold” of the former Cuban colony may be banned to the public indoors, but not a few Majorcans see this merely as a “setback of the present day” – and these come and go.

Directly from Café Cristal you can take the historical train to the picturesque village Sollér in the hinterland. The scandalous French writer George Sand (1804–1876), one of the first female cigar smokers, chose this place as a refuge to escape the winter of her homeland. In the year 1838 she came to Majorca, accompanied by the Polish composer Frédéric Chopin.

Lara Dominguez, owner of Estanco Santa Ponça, is a passionate cigar smoker | Photo: Gabriela Greess

What cigar lover doesn’t dream of having a reliable list at hand of comfortable rooftop terraces to enjoy a fine smoke in a foreign city during these antismoking times? Pedro Homar Oliver, manager of the Tourism Foundation Palma de Mallorca 365, has done this legwork with passion and put together a list for Palma. He receives me in the historical domicile of the tourist organization that promotes Majorca’s capital using alternative concepts on social media, which is extremely popular in Spain. On a charming balcony, he lights his favorite cigar for me, a Partágas Serie D No. 4 (EUR 12.00) and says, “Gabriela, have you ever enjoyed a cigar on the roof of a museum of contemporary art? Moreover, in Es Baluard Restaurant & Lounge they serve excellent Majorcan haute cuisine dishes.” Then Homar recommends a detour to the newest of luxury hotels, the Nakar; on its extravagant rooftop terrace that has a panorama view, pampered guests from all over the world will be amazed.

If you like being in the center of Palma’s lively street life, in the elegant bar of the boutique hotel Jaime III on Paseo Mallorca you’ll experience unforgettable moments. Right in the middle of the opulent shopping zone, I amuse myself with a Vegas Robaina Don Alejandro (EUR 16.75 EUR) while watching passersby who clearly enjoy their shopping. That they’re partly outfitted as if ready for the catwalk is fitting with the back-drop of the avant-garde, arty atmosphere of the hotel. For a relaxed evening smoke or later at night I recommend the Tast Club. Warning: the address isn’t easy to find. As a point of origin, you’ll find the target address, the small lane Carrer de Sant Jaume, very easily when heading toward the C&A retail store; the Tast Club is right behind it. In a historical vaulted cellar I am surprised by a wonderful bar, as well as a well-stocked walk-in humidor. The beautiful Ana from the service team shows me the neighboring salons. Each one of them is extravagantly furnished and has a private, intimate feeling – an interesting blueprint for the personal cigar room.

TOBACCO SHOPS

Estanco Liberto Torres
Paseo del Borne
20 07012 Palma de Mallorca
T +34 971 71 67 22

Estanco Plaza Weyler José Miguel
Plaza Weyler, 4
07001 Palma de Mallorca
T +34 971 72 94 54

Estanco Toni
Avenida Gabriel Alomar
8 07006 Palma
T +34 971 72 00 78

Estanco Santa Ponça
Calle Puig de Galatzo,
4 07183 Santa Ponça
T +34 971 69 00 64

Estanco Puerto Alcúdia
Calle Teodoro Canet
6 07400 Puerto de Alcúdia
T +34 971 54 52 94

Estanco Cala D’Or
Avenida Bélgica
34 07660 Cala D’Or
T +34 971 65 76 30

Estanco Arta
Calle 31 de Marzo
1 07570 Arta
T +34 971 83 57 75

LOUNGES

Tast Club
San Jaime, 6
07012 Palma de Mallorca
T +34 971 71 01 50
www.tast.com

RESTAURANTS & SMOKING TERRACES

Schwaiger Xino’s Restaurant
Camino de La Vileta,
39 07011 Palma
T +34 971 66 68 19
 www.schwaiger.es

Flanigan
Puerto Portals, local 16 07181 Calvià
T +34 971 67 91 91
 www.flanigan.es

Bruno
Port Adriano
Urbanización El Toro 07180 Calvià
T +34 971 23 24 98
www.restaurantebruno.com

Nikki Beach Club
Notario Alemany
1 07181 Magaluf
+34 971 12 39 62
www.nikkibeach.com/destinations/beach-clubs/mallorca

La Terraza De Port Adriano
Ses Penyes Rotges
07180 El Toro
T +34 971 23 27 28

Miramar
Paseo Marítimo
2 07410 Puerto Alcúdia
T +34 971 54 52 93
 www.laterrazadeportadriano.com

This article was published in the Cigar Journal Summer Edition 2017. Read more